This Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic is one of the 200 pieces from the Tadao Ando Limited Edition, designed in collaboration with the renowned Japanese architect. It combines Bulgari’s bold geometric case design, with a paired back dial featuring a spiral motif, further accentuating the watch’s minimalist, almost postmodern, feel.

An Italian design flair

Not usually considered within the horological category, Bulgari has sharpened its credentials over the last few years, following its acquisition of and , integrating both of the brands’ operations and capacities. The result is a combination of contemporary Swiss watchmaking know-how, paired with Italian design flair. More recently, Bulgari released its Octo Finissimo collection, comprised of ultra-thin movements housed within a dramatic, angular case. Within the overcrowded category of modern sports watches with integrated bracelets, the Octo Finissimo offers a compelling and visually distinctive alternative.

Described by some as a complication in its own right, ultra-thin watchmaking has traditionally been overly conservative and delicate, often confined to dress watches and burdened by production issues. Meanwhile, the Octo Finissimo Automatic embodies the long-standing appeal of ultra-thin watchmaking, combined with a forward-think aesthetic, that is both modern and wearable.

Bulgari x Tadao Ando

The collaboration with came about after Fabrizio Bonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s Director of Watch Design, saw one of Ando’s buildings and noted the parallels between the architect’s stark concrete design and the geometric construction of the Octo Finissimo. Ando has acquired his reputation by using concrete and glass, combined with creative lighting to create pure, essential works. His notable work includes the Church of Light in Osaka and the Modern Art Museum in Fort Worth. Seeing synergies between the two, Ando and Bulgari collaborated on a limited edition of 200 pieces, which were retailed exclusively in Japan. 

The Design

The core of the Octo Finissimo Automatic design is the geometric titanium case. The whole case, bracelet and dial feature a sandblasted finish, which gives the watch an even, matte grey texture. At 40mm in diameter and 5.15mm thick, the case is an intriguing combination of perspectives and size, hugging the wrist in a way that is both supremely comfortable and elegant. Due to the use of titanium, the whole Octo Finissimo Automatic weighs a mere 73 grams, which defies expectations when one first puts it on the wrist. The slender titanium bracelet, with the clasp recessed into it, extends the slim, angular proportions of the case.

For the dial, Tadao Ando opted for a minimalist design, removing any hour markers and the Bulgari name, going instead for a spiral motif emanating from the subsidiary seconds. This choice pushes the futurist appearance of the Octo Finissimo Automatic even further, with the circles complementing the sharp design of the case and bracelet. The caseback is personalised with Tadao Ando's signature and "Tadao Ando - Limited Edition”.

The Movement

This Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Tadao Ando Limited Edition is powered by the automatic Caliber BVL 138. A micro-rotor movement measuring only 2.23mm thick, it was the thinnest self-winding movement in the world when it first came out. It integrates a 60-hour power reserve and a platinum micro-rotor, with the metal having been chosen to give the rotor enough weight to generate energy, despite its reduced size and thickness. As with the rest of the watch, the finishing is sharp and unpretentious, decorated by hand with Côtes de Genève, chamfering and perlage. 

The Set

This Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic is accompanied by its outer box, box, guarantee card, cleaning cloth and accompanying paperwork. It comes on its original titanium bracelet, with a full complement of links.

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Closer look